Tools of the Trade

Alright guys, so I promised a post detailing my adventures with my first Custom 1:64 Datsun 510. Go check out the article under the Cars//Minicars section!

Here’s the picture I took of (almost) all the tools I used during this project.

Here are the tools I used in the making of my custom Datsun 510. Read the whole post for details on how to use 'em yourself!

Here are the tools I used in the making of my custom Datsun 510. Read the whole post for details on how to use ’em yourself!

Okay so first, lets talk paint. For cars, it’s freakin’ important. I’m currently using Model Master enamel paint, and it goes on smooth. I love it, and it does its job. For the 510 project, I used all Model Master paint.

For the body, I chose Chevy Engine Red

The hood and overfenders on the car are Matte Black

and for the finishing touches, I used Metallic Grey for the exhaust and back bumper dust.

Model Master makes great paint, and if you’re a hobbyist like I am, and haven’t checked them out yet, you need to. Trust me.

Alright so next comes the paint brush. I’m not terribly picky when it comes to which brush I use, I just picked up a generic 4-pack of fine-tip brushes and using just one did more than accomplish the task at hand. What’s more important than a brush while working with 1:64 scale is a steady hand holding the brush.

For blades and nippers, I am using a number one (#1) X-Acto knife, which is perfect for cutting the tape at fine angles, and just a generic pair of nippers to manipulate misplaced paint and tape. Which reminds me, tape is a huge part of any paint job, so grab some Tamiya Yellow Modeling Tape– they even sell refills for extra cheap!

Now for my favorite part (Joking this is the worst part ever, kind of)– the sanding tools. I grabbed a 5-pack of low-grit (High numbered) sandpaper. In the picture, from left to right, the numbers are as follows: 3600-grit, 4000-grit, 6000-grit, 8000-grit, and finally, 12000-grit.

All of these serve their purposes, but I mostly used the 4000 for buffing, smoothing, and shining, and the 6000 and 8000 for the finish touches to remove any swirls. Also worth noting, I just used a regular old shop file to remove the paint, it’s really not that difficult, and I don’t think it’s necessary to leave a diecast model in a bag of brake fluid or something equivalent for 48 hours to remove the paint. I spent 15 minutes filing the paint off of this 510– suck it up and just do it.

Yes, in the picture, you do see nail files. These are obviously rather coarse, and I used these for the final scratches and dings on the paint. They also work great for removing the paint, if you don’t have a shop file handy. The other files, the skinnier ones, are ones you can find at any modeling store– I picked up 5 individuals, from coarse to fine to extra fine. These are great for reaching the tiny cracks and details for taking paint off, shaping, and I even buffed with the extra fine (along with the 6000- and 8000-grit squares) and I love the look my 510 has now– it’s a SuperJalopy.

What is not shown is the can of primer, because it is rather large, but any primer will really work– just make sure you sand it and smooth it before you paint! Any questions, leave them in the comments, hopefully I’ve been thorough enough. Keep checking back for updates and make sure you go check out the pictures of the 510 in the Cars//Minicars section!


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